10 Ways to be Unhappy in Finland (Lapland & Helsinki)

Two nights ago, we went on a hunt for the Aurora Borealis. After being pulled by a snowmobile up into the mountains, we found ourselves under cloudy skies with no chance of seeing the Northern Lights. 

So, we sat around a fire inside a traditional structure that is very much like a Native American teepee. And, though the purpose of our outing (to see the Northern Lights) did not ever happen for us, we found that we were still enjoying ourselves. Chatting with a lovely couple from England, hearing stories about Finland from our guide, and enjoying a juice made from Lingonberries that had been gathered the previous spring.

As our guide Ben said, one has to “actively try to have a bad time in Finland.”

This is something I experienced myself during my stay here. Apart from how expensive everything was, there was truly no downside to anything we did, saw, or tried here. As someone who is usually overly-anxious, pessimistic, narcissistic, and downright moody, I was amazed by how peaceful I felt in this snowy land.

Ben was right. It’s not easy being unhappy in Finland.

So, for those of you who would like to be in a sour mood while here, I’ve put together my list of 10 ways to be miserable in Finland. Ready?

1. Don’t breathe 

The air is incredibly fresh and crisp. One of our Finnish guides actually showed us how fresh the air is by pointing out the dark stringy plants hanging from the pine trees in the Finnish Lapland. He explained that during spring, when the snow gets hard enough, the reindeer can reach up to eat this lichen from the branches. This lichen can only grow in unpolluted air. He then expressed how grateful he is (something I’ve noticed happens quite often in Finland) that the wind never seems to blow from the direction of certain cities where pollution is common. 

As we walked on snowy trails or traveled down to the Baltic sea, we felt this crisp air fill our lungs. It was invigorating and refreshing.

So, if you really want to be unhappy in Finland, don’t breathe in any of that fresh air.

2. Don’t listen when someone else speaks

When I travel, I get very paranoid that the local people will absolutely hate me. So, when I read (and watched YouTube videos) about how Finnish people can often come across as “cold” or “stand-offish” I was very nervous. 

Instead, I found that everyone was responsive, helpful, and happy to share their advice, thoughts, and stories. Yes, there were some silences in the conversations or during car rides, but none of them ever felt awkward. 

In fact, they were contented, thoughtful silences that were then happily interrupted with a bit of history or local anecdotes. It is incredible to hear from a Finn about the politics of the country, the simple way of life in Lapland, as well as the history of the native Sami people. These talks will fill you with wonder and gratitude for being able to visit this beautiful country.

So, if you’d like to be unhappy in Finland, I suggest that you don’t listen to anyone. That way, you can miss out on the amazing facts you’ll learn.

3. Talk all of the time

On a similar note, I’ve found that if you, instead, talk constantly to fill any silences or simply to speak about yourself, you’ll miss a lot of special moments that come with being silent in the woods or hearing about childhood memories from your guides. 

In the Lapland mornings, the sun turns the snow to gold and you can hear birds singing and the branches of the trees moving in the wind. In the afternoon, you may also hear the huskies bark or the clip of reindeer feet. It’s a magical experience.

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, talk all of the time. 

4. Don’t visit any huskies

Of course, there’s no better way to be unhappy in Finland than to avoid huskies. You can be grumpier, still, if you decide not to try driving the dog sleds around a track.

These husky experiences are filled with happy dogs that are bursting with energy and ready to cuddle you at the end of a trail ride. The ride itself is filled with both anxious energy and hysterical laughter as you bend your knees over every bump of snow, try to break when the pups want to run, and nearly ram into the trunk of a tree.

Husky centers also promise the wagging tails of puppies filled with unbridled joy.

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, don’t visit any huskies. 

5. Don’t leave your cabin*

Finland is a land of forests and lakes. Adventure is around every corner, activities are available no matter what the weather, and guides are excited to show you the way. From snowshoeing to snowmobiling to cross-country skiing to dog sledding to ice fishing (wow my list could just keep on going) to jumping into the Baltic sea after a sauna session, there’s an endless amount of activities for you to do. And I promise each adventure will test your will power and comfort zone while leaving you breathless with laughter and joy.

So, if you want to miserable in Finland, don’t leave your cabin. 

6. Don’t try the food

During our last evening in Helsinki, we were lucky enough to enjoy a meal at Grön where we watched the chefs prepare dishes with meticulous care and a passion, unlike anything we’d seen before. Each portion of the five-course meal burst on our tongues with flavor and freshness. Each dish had a story as well, coming from either the restaurant’s bakery or their local farm. It was absolutely divine. So, definitely don’t go to Grön if you want to be unhappy in Finland. 

When we arrived in Lapland, we enjoyed the buffet at the Northern Lights Village. This was unlike your normal buffet. Foraged mushrooms coated in a savory pesto sauce, salmon salad, crepes… my stomach is growling even now. 

And then! On our ice fishing safari with the Polar Aurora Cabins, we sat around a fire while our guide prepared homemade reindeer pastries, roasted our freshly caught fish and reindeer sausages while revealing a Tupperware of homemade cookies. This was, of course, served with the berry juice we’d fallen in love with during our time in Finland. The crust of the pastry melted in your mouth (no soggy bottom there for any Great British Baking Show fans). The mix of tender reindeer meat with cooked veggies was a savory delight and a perfect example of how home-cooked meals always taste better. The fish was incredibly fresh—we can attest to that—and broke apart beautifully. Seasoned only with a bit of salt, it tasted like something you would pay big bucks for in a restaurant. 

Then, there was the water. After trying desperately to create our own ice fishing holes with the manual screwdriver (and laughing so hard our stomachs hurt), we got to reach right down into the lake with our Kuksas (the traditional Finnish wood cup) to taste the water. It was like smooth silk on our tongues. Better yet, it was enjoyed on a vast lake with no one but ourselves.

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, don’t eat the food. 

7. Don’t get a drink in an ice bar

On one of our first nights at the Northern Lights Village, we decided to stop in at the ice bar. Every year, the structure is carved completely from the ice. 

There, we tried spiked berry juice and an espresso Finnish vodka shot that, to be honest, we could have drunk all night… We enjoyed these beverages at an ice table, sitting on wooden logs covered with reindeer hide. 

However, I think best of all, is the fact that we got to chat with not only each other but the bartender as well. In a fur hat and wrapped in a blanket, he slowly told us more about his history. How he was originally from Tunis and had followed his wife to this Nordic country. He told us about his time working on cruise ships, how he worked his way up before deciding to leave because he didn’t want it to become his life. How his family is still in Tunis and how often he thinks about them. It was so special to get to know him while sitting in that surreal setting. It made our entire Northern Lights Village experience better. 

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, don’t get a drink at the ice bar.

8. Don’t go to the library

I know I’ve already written about this a lot, but I still can’t get over the Oodi library in Helsinki. The casual nature of the parents and children as literacy is mixed with play. The emphasis placed on improving and developing your passions—recording studios, gaming rooms, conference spaces. Oh, and the cafés with their incredible selection of food, tea, and coffee. It was a mind-blowing space that has kept returning to our thoughts even after only visiting it once. It makes us wonder: What does reading really look like? What does learning really look like? What does play really look like? And then, maybe, do they all look the same?

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, don’t go to the library.

9. Don’t sauna

At first, being in the sauna can feel suffocating. Like you’re overheating. Your heart quickens, your fingers tingle, and sweat drips slowly down your forehead. Taking slower, deeper breaths, you then learn to become one with the heat and you can slowly disappear into the steam and burn. It is then that you feel your muscles relax and your mind soften. It becomes something similar to meditation.

We were lucky enough to try the large Löyly sauna in Helsinki, Finland where you have the ability to transfer between two big saunas, the Baltic sea, and large open areas that are protected from the cold (but aren’t filled with heat). You can also rehydrate with water (or dehydrate further with an alcoholic beverage) in these areas as well.

Not only was there the magical Löyly experience, but our Airbnb also had a sauna right in the bathroom! There, we could return from a long day of walking to relax in this heated room.

But that wasn’t the last sauna we would see. On our last night in Saariselka (in the Finnish Lapland) we stayed in our own cabin at the Polar Aurora Cabins. This cabin was equipped with its very own handmade sauna that opened out onto the snow (which is something that I’ll speak to below).

All in all, saunas make you feel good. Period.

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, don’t go to the sauna.

10. Don’t ice bath

Okay, so one of my bucket list items here in Finland was to go from the sauna into the Baltic sea. At Löyly, I had the opportunity to do so. Walking from within the glass walls, out onto the wooden deck, I slowly lowered myself into the icy waves. It burned. Like it really burned. Like big, bad, icy chill burn. I wondered if I’d just made a huge mistake. But then, back inside the hot steam rooms, I felt euphoria wash over me. My mother experienced the same thing. 

When we got to Lapland, we were told that instead of going into icy waters, the people there simply roll around in the snow. At our beautiful hand-built cabin at the Polar Aurora Cabins, we had the opportunity to give this practice a try. Wowza! It was a lot more difficult than walking into the sea. This could, of course, be due to the fact that I slipped on some ice and flopped like a seal outside our cabin, but I think mentally it’s easier to lower yourself into the water than it is to lie into the snow. In fact, we simply rubbed snow on ourselves instead of rolling around in it. Still, once we returned into the sauna, we again felt that euphoric feeling. 

To quote my mother here, “it’s like a drug. I’m an addict.”

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, don’t try an ice bath.

11. *You don’t stay inside

So, actually, I take back point number five. Waking up every morning in Finland, with the snow floating outside and beautiful cabins with fireplaces to sit by… you will definitely be happy even if you stay inside. It can be extremely expensive to do all of the activities listed above. Really, really expensive, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy Finland without them. Simply sitting in a cabin with the fire on or taking a walk in a snowy forest is all you need to fill you with happiness. 

So, if you want to be miserable in Finland, you can’t stay indoors either…

Honestly, if you truly want to be unhappy, you may want to consider a different destination.

Like our guide, Ben, said: you have to actively try to be unhappy in Finland.